Tuesday, June 14, 2011

Scotland Day Four

Scotland Day Four

We arose late today and had the usual breakfast, specifically more food than any three people can eat. Then, we set out for the ferry ride back to Oben, then on to Glenncoe.

This valley was the site of a massacre that occurred in 1692. The king of England, James II, was attempting to bring the Scottish clans under his dominion. He was also King James VI of Scotland, so he had more reasons than one to make the clans do his bidding. The head of the MacDonald clan delayed in signing the document the other clans had signed, so the king decided to make an example of him. He ordered his troops to Glenncoe, where they stayed with the clan for two weeks, enjoying their hospitality.

Then, the order came and the British platoon slaughtered about 30 of the residents, including women and children. That was the end of the power of the MacDonald clan, and subsequently their lands were forfeited to the king. In later years, descendants of the MacDonalds applied for a return of the lands, but they were always denied. Thomas Dalrymple was the king's advisor who ostensibly gave the order for the massacre, but an inquest proved inconclusive, and no one was ever punished for the treachery.

Now, the valley remains hauntingly beautiful, as you will see in the pics on my Facebook page. We stopped there for a photo shoot, and then went on to Fort William. The "fort" part of its name has long ceased to exist. This city is on the bank of the Nevis river or loch, I'm not sure which, and we are staying in the Nevis Bank Hotel. The town sits right next to the highest mountain in Scotland, which rises higher than 4000 feet. In the past, I tended to scoff at the idea of mountains in the British isles, but this really does qualify. We rode a gondola up to the top, and took more amazing photos. This is a ski area in wintertime, and it looks as if it would be a pretty good one, with more than 2000 feet in vertical elevation to ski.

After the ride, we went to the hotel, a building with very modern architecture and amenities. Our dinner was marvelous. I had sea bass with vegetables and "chorizo," which was really just sausage. I guess they don't expect people like us Zonies, who know real chorizo. Following dinner, several of us walked into town, where Ben bought his third kilt. He looks quite fetching, I must say. Not so much that I want to buy one, however.

Tomorrow, we travel to Uig, on the Isle of Skye.

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