Baltic Cruise Notes, Day 11: Gdansk, Poland

Today, we went on the only serious tour we scheduled. Throughout the trip, we (mostly I) chose day tours for their interest and fun value. This one was one we felt we should do. After a light breakfast, we alit in Gdynia, Poland. This is one of the "Three Cities" that include Gdansk, Gdynia, and Sopot. I might be able to pronounce the last one the way the locals do, but the others, forget it. We boarded a bus for Stutthof, which is about an hour away. Stutthof was one of the Nazi death camps, and the mood on the bus grew more and more somber as we approached the grounds of the camp. We entered through the gate that prisoners would enter, and went into the administration building to see a film that was shot by the Soviets when they arrived. By that time, the Nazis had evacuated most of the prisoners to other camps in the west, nearer to Germany. The evacuation occurred on foot, and the number of prisoners at the beginning of the journey was about 25,000. About 17,000 arrived at their new concentration camps. The gate to the prisoners' part of the camp was called the death gate by the prisoners. Here, they stood for up to an entire day in the cold, as they were processed in. They were told on entry that this was the end of their life, and there was one way to leave: through the chimney that was visible at the far end, maybe 200 yards away. Surprisingly, about half of those who died in this camp were Catholic or protestant. Jews, however, were sent more or less immediately to death, while the other prisoners would work until they became ill or did something the guards deemed worthy of death. The barracks were long, low wooden buildings with no heat. Prisoners were allotted one square foot, meaning that they could not lie down to sleep. Many of the barracks were no longer in existence, and some had been reconstructed, but a few were original. In one was a very large (about 25 feet by 10 feet by 4-5 feet high) pile of shoes. In the original camp, they found piles of shoes that were comprised of over 300,000 pairs. The prisoners had to wear wooden clogs. A few of the people on our tour had lost family members in the concentration camps, and our guide, although she was young, said she had lost much of her family as well. I won't detail the stories we were told. If I did, I doubt that you would read anything I write in the future. Just one more thing: near the chimney, we saw the gas chamber and the building with the chimney attached, containing three ovens. It was a sight I will never forget, and one I hope never to see again. On our return, our guide told us about the rise of Solidarity, with Lech Wolensa and the ship-builders who led the revolution. Some paid with their lives. But by that time, in the 1980s, even the communist rulers realized that the tide had turned against them. To me, it seems like yesterday that this all occurred, but it was in 1989. The election of Karol Wojtyla, who was a Polish cardinal, as Pope in 1978 was the beginning of the end, as he came to Poland in 1980 and delivered a speech to hundreds of thousands of people, that love would overcome adversity, and that they should remain faithful. The Poles gained tremendous strength in their opposition to the communist government, and over the next decade there were several nationwide stikes, enough that the Soviets threatened to invade at one point. But the dominoes had started to fall, and it was only a matter of time until communism would no longer rule eastern Europe. We entered Gdansk and were dropped off in the old town section. It is very charming. the city is about 800,000 (I think that is the entire Three Cities), and a river runs through center of old town. The buildings are of the type I expected to see in eastern Europe--narrow row houses several stories high, painted in various pastel shades. Denise and I split from the group and strolled the streets, as there was a festival and vast swarms of people. It reminded me of Tempe's Mill Avenue festival, but without the insipid art. At one point, we saw the entrance to the building that houses Lech Walensa's office. He still works every day, now well into his 70s. As you may know, he just endorsed Romney for POTUS, and whether you agree with him or not, he is obviously still an actor on the world stage. Our return to ship was at 3:00 in the afternoon, after seven hours of a five-hour tour. After naps and reading, we had dinner and repaired to the lounge where the string quartet plays every night. Then, we returned to the theatre, where we enjoyed a second round of Jimmy Travis, the comedian and singer I mentioned a few days ago. He provided some excellent humor, poking gentle fun at almost everyone--the audience, the band ("We're all from the South. I'm from Florida, and these guys are from southern Ukraine."), and the cruise line. It was a lovely way to end the day. Tomorrow, the island of Bornholm, if we can land there. Good night.

Baltic Crise Note, Day 10: Visby, Gotland, Sweden

We were to have a bicycle tour of Visby, the main city on the island of Gotland, which is a resort island that is part of Sweden. Apparently, they do not have a proper port for a ship this size, so we were supposed to "tender" to shore. I think the source of the term is that such boats would tend a ship. Anyhow, no such luck. There were enough swells and waves that the captain decided it was not safe to go in. We spent the day on ship. Having seen the level of waves later in the day, we appreciated the captain's decision, because we would certainly have been spending the night on the island. Denise and I are fortunate that we are not prone to motion sickness. From mid-afternoon on, everyone on board the ship appears drunk. There are rails and handholds everywhere,so there isn't much risk of falling, but it just feels odd to be rolled around on a structure this large. We had a nice dinner with our new friends from Canada. He is the mayor of a medium-sized city, and she teaches special education. We have had a nice time with them. Short notes tonight. More tomorrow.

Baltic Cruise Notes, Day 9: Riga, Latvia

Today, we landed at Riga, Latvia about 10 AM. Riga is a city of about 800,000 people, which is about 1/3 of the population of Latvia. They use the Lat for their currency, and it trades at 2 dollars per Lat. In many shopping places, especially stalls, you must have Lats or you can't buy anything. Quite a few take Euros, though, and some even take dollars. Our tour was a bus tour to Turraida and Sigulda, which are ancient cities, as is Riga. Riga was established in 1201 by a conquering group of Crusaders from Germany, I think. Leading them was a cleric who established the city, then proceeded to give large plots of land to the knights while he was building churches and converting the populace to Christianity. Sigulda was founded in 1207 (they are very definite about these dates and times), as a defensive castle city. In medieval times, these areas were powerful trading cities, similar to Talinn, Estonia. All were members of the Hansiatic League, a trading and military association of Baltic states. We did not learn the intricacies of Soviet and Nazi takeovers, but in my peregrinations, I came across a monument honoring the children who were deported to Siberia from 1941 to 1949, so I know there was a great deal of hardship during the Soviet times. At a talk last night, we learned about the 'Singing Revolution' that was the beginning of independence for Latvia, Lithuania, and Estonia. On a day in 1989, the people of these countries formed a human chain from Lithuania to Estonia, along the highways. Then they simply sang songs. It was the beginning of the end for the Soviets in these countries, because the time in which they could send everyone to Siberia was long over. Independence occurred in 1991. Many of the buildings in Riga are in the art nuveau style from the 1920s, during the brief period of independence from the early 1900s to 1940 when the WWII invasions and Soviet occupation started. There are not that many of the really ugly Soviet buildings that graced St. Petersburg and Talinn, partly because there was a thriving economy before the Soviets took over, so they could use existing buildings rather than build their own. We arrived in Sigulda and saw some very beautiful castles and walls dating from the 1200s. The castle in Sigulda is the "new" one, built in the 1600-1700s, but behind it are the ruins of the earlier one that was demolished in the 1600s. The castle at Turraida, close by, is largely intact, and the grounds reminded us of the Skanses museum in Stockholm, as several buildings had been moved there and restored. There was a tower that was about 5 stories high, and we trudged to the top on winding stone staircases with no rails. Meeting people coming the other was was interesting, at least. On our arrival back at the ship, I decided to go exploring in town while Denise napped. The old town reminded me of Talinn, but there were not as many booths and shops dedicated to tourism as in Talinn. Back on ship, we ordered dinner in our cabin: onion soup, a cheese tray, steak with steamed veggies and French fries, and iced tea. Nothing fancy, but really good stuff. After that, Denise went to get her hair cut in the spa, and I sat on deck as we left the port. Later, we went to a show with a lot of singing and dancing about something or other. It was good, but I'm tired. Tomorrow, Visby by bicycle. Good night.

Baltic Cruise Notes, Day 8: Talinn, Estonia

It is hard to believe that we have reached the halfway point in our trip. Yesterday, for the first time, I thought about how it would be nice to get back home, in the normal swing of things. Then I woke up. We started early this morning, to board the bus for Talinn, Estonia, old town. Now, this is the first city on our tour that has the sorts of buildings I thought we would be seeing. Frankly, we have been mildly disappointed in the architecture on this trip, having become acquainted with buildlings that were extremely ancient, in Scotland. Talinn has buildlings that are that old, some even older. For instance, the city wall is mostly intact, built in medieval times. One structure that was pointed out, a church, was almost dismissed by our guide as being modern, built in the 1700s. We stopped in the higher area of the city, next to their parliament building and across from a Russian Orthodox church. Since it was Sunday morning, we noticed the faithful gathering at the foot of the steps and crossing themselves repeatedly while looking at the ground, then up at the icon that was on the high parapet of the entrance. We were allowed to go in, even though their service was starting, as long as we were very quiet and respectful. Denise had brought a scarf that she put on, and we stood and listened to the choir as the priest began preparations for the mass. In these churches, there is no instumental music, and there are no seats---all of the congregants stand throughout the services, whieh can last for two hours or more. The singers' pitch was variable, but their harmonies were lovely and haunting, and very worshipful. Inside the church were multiple domes that must have been 40 or 50 feet above us, so the acoustics were amazing. After the church, we followed our guide through a maze of very narrow medieval streets paved with extremely uneven cobblestones. This was the first guide we've had who was not so good at describing the history of the surroundings. He was very young, and spoke excellent English. The language here is Finno-Urgic, and our guide explained that it has been voted by some group that votes on things like this, to be the most beautiful language on the planet. Well, maybe. Anyhow, we're almost becoming jaded with all the architectural wonders in the various cities. Talinn is a city of about 400,000 people, which is about 1/3 of the population of Estonia. This is a very old city that has been important for centuries for trade on the Baltic Sea. It was conquered in the fifteenth century by the Swedes, who brought Christianity and education to the masses, and it was then sold off and on to other countries, including Germany. In the early 1700s, the country was taken by Russia after its successful war with Sweden. Then all education and building of the country's infrastructure stopped. In the early 1900s, Estonia won independence, until the Russians invaded in 1940. A year later, the Nazis occupied Estonia, until 1945, when the Soviets took over. They deported or killed 35% of the population, and moved a large group of ethnic Russians into the country. It's a pretty grim history, and yet the country has thrived since 1991, when it won independence again from the collapsing Soviet Union. Estonia is part of the European Union, so they use the Euro here, and the average Estonian makes about €19,000 per year. The country has avoided many of the problems other small EU countries like Greece and Spain have suffered, by a program of careful spending and austerity. Sort of like the U. S. Oh, wait.... We returned to the ship for lunch, something I can't remember--all the amazing food is running together--then a nap on deck chairs. It's a hard life, but someone has to do it. Laundry figured in somewhere, as well. In late afternoon, we listened to a lecture on Riga, Latvia, so we are a little better-prepared for tomorrow's tour. Following the lecture, we had an ecumenical prayer service led by Willie Aames, a former actor who has been in dozens of well-known productions. You might remember him as one of the teens on the show "Eight Is Enough." He had, according to Wikipedia, troubles with alcohol until his conversion to Christianity, and he is now an ordained minister, who worked with Franklin Graham on a project with a superhero named "Bible Man." Look, I'm not making this up. Anyway, he is the cruise director, and he gave a nice talk on First Corinthans 1:11-13 that fit well with a very mixed and small congregation. We had dinner, then there was a show, the first one we've made it to. The "headliner" for the show was Jimmy Travis, a guitarist and comedian who has, according to the cruise notes, written over 150 Christian children's songs, as well as jingles for many different ads for companies including Toyota and Nascar. He is an excellent guitarist, and sings in a mostly country-western style. The whole audience got enough belly laughs to cause abdominal pain. For instance, he lamented how much Adam suffered for Eve, and all men since the Garden of Eden, as God took a rib to form woman, the rib that held in the belly. Okay, I can't tell a joke, but it was really funny. Tomorrow, Latvia. Good night.

Baltic Cruise Notes, Day 7: St. Petersburg

Today was the second day in St. Petersburg, and we went to the Hermitage, a museum that was established by Catherine the Great in the late 1700s. She decided that she was going to gentrify the city, so she started buying collections of art from other collectors. When the art arrived, she ordered a building to be built near the winter palace to show the art, and she is the one who named it the Hermitage, a French word that can mean "place of solitude." She kept buying art after that, and when she ran out of space, she ordered another building, then another. Eventually, there were five buildings, all connected and collectively known as the Hermitage. The museum opens an hour early for the cruise ships, and we had to go through Russian passport control again, something we did not have to do in Finland. Seems we won't be getting passport stamps in all the countries after all. We arrived to a very long line of groups, but were inside within about 20 minutes, thus avoiding the rain that followed. Inside, the stairway looked a great deal like the summer palace, with gilded columns, large windows, and huge vases made of single pieces of malachite, jaspar, jade, and other semi-precious stones. The whole place was larger than life. They display 15,000 pieces of art, out of the collection of 3 million. As our guide told us, if you looked at paintings for eight hours a day, one minute each, it would take eleven years to see the entire collection. There are certain pieces on display all the time, but they rotate the rest of the collection through. I was very glad we had a guide, First, she was very knowledgeable, and she communicated with us by small radios with earpieces, so she could speak even in the large crowds, and we could hear her. Second, I would never have known where to go, to see the "important" art. Third, she was pushy enough to get through the throngs of people, and to thread our group to the front of the groups near the paintings she was telling us about. After two and a half hours, Denise and I were exhausted, as were all the others. I can't begin to catalogue all the paintings we saw. From early Italian artists, to Renaissance painting and sculpture including da Vinci and Michaelangelo, to the Dutch masters, especially Rembrandt, to the French impressionists, including Monet, Matisse, and Picasso, our heads were spinning after a while. Denise was particularly moved by the painting, "The Prodigal Son," by Rembrandt. There is a theologian named Henri Nouwen who wrote a book with the same title, and Denise has read several of his publications. She found this book very insightful. By the way, if you have an iPad, you can download a Hermitage application that is free, and you can see some of the art, with explanations. These post-Peristriuka Russians are really modern! After the museum, we returned to the ship for lunch. We went to the Waves grill, and had hamburgers. The meal gave a new meaning to "fast food." The grill is on the pool deck, and a waiter brought the burgers to our table, which was right by the rail, looking out at the harbor. I have exulted enough about food, so just understand these were really good hamburgers. We had the afternoon "off," so I read for a while in the coffee shop with my favorite drink (triple espresso with an inch of steamed half and half), and Denise found a place to take a nap in an armchair. A bit leter, she went to an art class, and painted an egg, while I repaired to the room to read some more, and to take pictures from our veranda. I used the telephoto function on my little camera to take photos of some of the soldiers around the customs office, and then I filmed a downpour that engulfed the ship. You couldn't see more than 100 yards during the rain, but it passed quickly. We caught dinner in the Terrace Cafe, a buffet that serves new gourmet delights for every meal. I had a salad, and handmade pasta with a sauce the cook made with the ingredients I chose. Then, we had ice cream with that handmade caramel sauce that is to die for. We had cast off from the harbor just before dinner, and during dinner we watched as we passed a shipyard that had some military vessels, including a couple of Russian submarines. We ate dinner with a couple we met on board. He is the mayor of a city in Canada, and she is a teacher of at-risk high school students, as well as a consultant for autistic students. Our conversations are lively and fascinating, including their takes on the American political scene and medical insurance situation. After dinner, we moved to the topmost deck, where there is another lounge called Horizons, where there was a Russian bazaar to buy the last few souvenirs, in case we hadn't spent enough money on Russian soil. Then, a younger lady and her mother, whom we had met on our Hermitage tour, came in and we conversed with them until the lounge filled with people who somehow still had the energy to dance the night away. Tomorrow, Talinn, Estonia. Good night.

Baltic Cruise Notes, Day 6: St. Petersburg

This was one of the days we've been looking forward to since we booked the trip. St. Petersburg, historical capital of Russia, home of the csars, flashpoint for the 1917 revolution. History galore! We headed out from the ship early, and went straight to the Summer Palace, also known as Catherine's Palace, named for Catherine II, also known as Catherine the Great. She was tsarina of Russia for 30 years, after knocking off her husband, Peter II. Nobody in 18th century Russia seemed to have any compunctions about getting rid of inconvenient family members, and although Catherine II was truly beloved of the people, she didn't like her husband very much, and some of her relatives (she was from Germany) tried to get Peter II to abdicate the throne in favor of Catherine. When he refused, he somehow ended up dead. We didn't get a lot of gory details, but I think that was gist of the story. The palace almost makes Versailles look dowdy. The outside is robin's egg blue, with columns, cupolas, and bric-a-brac that was originally gilded in gold. Now, some of the features are gold and some are painted with goldish paint. Not unattractive, although quite a bit of St. Petersburg is dirty, and there were areas in and around the palaced that were somewhat dingy. I guess if you only have a few weeks of decent weather, you don't want to waste them dusting the corners of your palace. Anyhow, we donned paper booties not unlike surgical wear, before entering the halls of the palace. The floor throughout is immaculately restored, as are the walls and ceiling. Each room was bright and airy, due to the very large windows, and every room had paintings on walls and, usually, ceiling. And each room was different, with different themes and colors. At the Amber Room, we moved from opulent to decadent. The walls were covered with several tons of amber, arranged to form pictures and decorations, including frames for other pictures. I would show you a picture, but we were not allowed to take photos in that room. The grounds of the palace to on and on. We understood the guide to say that the retinue of the csar and family would be about 3000 people, including servants and soldiers, so there were a lot of folks living on the grounds of the palace, and it looks like there was plenty of room for them. We left the palace proper, and stopped in a music pavilion on the grounds, where we were serenaded by a sextet of gentlemen, with a Russian folksong. They sang a cappella, as is the custom in the Russian Orthodox Church, and the natural resonance of the chamber, combined with the rich voices and harmonies, brought tears to our eyes. The tenors were excellent, but the bass sang below anything I had ever heard a human voice reach, and he appeared to be putting little effort, all the while staying perfectly on pitch with a rich, warm tone. If you'd like to hear them, I took a video, and when I get back to a fast Internet connection, I'm going to put it on Facebook. Following the palace, we drove back to St. Petersburg proper, and stopped very briefly at a cathedral (name escapes me), just long enough to get some photos, and then on to a restaurant for lunch. We were served several courses, ending with chicken stroganov and dessert of vanilla custard. Not quite the same as to food on-board the ship, but not bad for a quick lunch. After lunch, we drove to Sts. Peter and Paul Cathedral, located on the grounds of an old fortress. It is where all the csars are buried, including (since 1998) Nicolaus II and his family, who were murdered by the bolsheviks in 1917. The inside of this church was undergoing renovation, but with the parts that were already restored, you have never seen that much gold in all your life! Quoting the writer of the book Lives of a Cell, "The mind, too overwhelmed to boggle, twitches." Next was the Church of Spilled Blood, site of the murder of some famous csar or family member thereof. The details have really run together, not in least part because the names are all very similar, with a great deal of overlap. For instance, Peter I, or Peter the Great, was married to Catherine I, who was not Catherine the Great. Peter II was married to Catherine II, who was not of the royal bloodline, but who became tsarina Catherine the Great. You got that? Me neither. It all started to sound like the "Who's on First" Abbott and Costello gag, or the court scene from "What's Up, Doc?" Ryan O'Neill: "Is that clear?" Judge: "No, but it's consistent...." At the last few stops, there were several weddings going on, a veritable brood of brides and gaggle of grooms, all carrying on with great hilarity, with the grooms carrying the brides, then kissing them, as family and costumes actors looked on and posed for pictures. In one open area on a bridge, there were four or five of these situations all going on at the same time, spaced randomly, with little thought or obvious preparation. Our guide said that summer is very popular for weddings, and Fridays are the usual day for them to be carried out. On Denise's Facebook page, there is a collage of photos of brides. You should go look. We returned to the ship, more or less spent. After a rest, we dressed and went to the Red Ginger cafe. As I told Denise, I keep thinking each night that tomorrow's meal couldn't possibly top this one. And I keep getting proven wrong. We started with appetizers, Denise with remoulades of beef and me with carmelized prawns. Second was a lovely Asian soup, name escapes me. Then, on to the main course. We both had lobster pad Thai, which the chef had added a bit more pepper than usual, at our request. It was perfect. After dinner, we stopped in one of the lounges and listened to a string quartet play popular classical and romantic pieces, then took a stroll on the deck before retiring to the room. It is now a little after 11 PM, and sun finaly set. Tomorrow, we're off to the Hermitage, a spectacular museum started by Catherine the Great. Good night.

Baltic Cruise Notes, Day 5: Helsinki

Today, we awoke while we were still at sea. And yes, I was rocked to sleep last night. We went to the gym (excuse me, "fitness center") after a cup of coffee at the barista. Running on a treadmill on a moving ship is a different experience. You go up and down hills without changing the settings on the machine. We ran looking out at the ocean, and it was good. Eventually, we made it to lunch and then to our tour. We took a walking tour of Helsinki, that lasted about three hours. I must say, I was not impressed by the architecture, style, or construction of the buildings and attractions. Helsinki has been called the "Pearl of the Baltic," but I think maybe the "Oyster of the Baltic" might be more appropriate. There was one exception to the dismal architecture: the Rock Church. This church was built in 1968, starting with blasting out the center of a huge stone hill, then building a dome over the massive crater that was made by the explosions. The center of the dome is solid copper, made of 15,000 miles of copper wire. It is supported by what appear to be wooden trusses that radiate from all sides of this round space, and they allow ambient light through into the interior. The walls are solid rock, the actual walls of the crater, and the above-ground parts of the walls are made of rock that was left from the explosions. While we were there, a pianist was playing classical music, mostly Chopin preludes, and the acoustics were simply spectacular. The sound and the simplicity of the structure made for an extremely worshipful environment. I would like to go there once to church, although I might not get much out of the service, being in Finnish and all. We got quite a history lesson on the tour, and I'll boil it down for you. They were ruled by the Swedes from the 1200's until 1809, then by the Russians until 1917. In WWII, they were invaded first by the Russians and then the Germans. In what they thought was a pragmatic move, they allowed the Germans to use their country to attack Russia, and were thus considered collaborators with the Nazis. In 1944, they changed alliance and made up with Russia again. They have been independent for 95 years, and are a republic. Anyhow, we returned to the ship at 5:30, and stopped into our room for our now customary afternoon nap, then dined at 8:00 at the Grand Dining Room. Once again, the cuisine lent itself to hyperbole, although not quite the heights reached last night. Denise and I both had fish, salmon for her and some kind of fish I had never heard of for me. The meals were all lovely and delicious, and I won't bore you with the details. Better than the meal, we had dinner with a lovely couple from Mobile, Alabama, named Abe and Caroline. He is a maritime lawyer, and they had a few years on us, like most people on the ship. We had a very nice time conversing with them, and left for our room after a two-hour meal. I was surprised to learn that we were setting our clocks back another hour tonight. That means there is a two-hour time difference between Stockholm and St. Petersburg. We just won't get much sleep tonight. A word about the bed in our room. I don't know what brand or type it is, but I think I'm in love. In one night, it may have cured my back pain. This mattress is fantastic. Out of time. Good night.

Baltic Cruise Notes, Day 4: Stockholm and Setting Sail

On our last day in Stockholm, we mainly got ready to head for the ship. After a nice breakfast in the hotel and packing, we shopped for a while. I was impressed by the extensive shopping mall that was all around us, in almost every direction. After walking around in some of the stores, we returned to the hotel by way of the farmers' market that was in the square by the hotel. Apparently, they have an open-air market there every day, with all sorts of fruits vegetables, nuts, and various other edibles, all displayed in boxes facing out from the proprietors in the centers of the booths. It was very esthetic--you must see some pictures. Denise has been posting them on her Facebook page, and I'll try to figure out how to share them on mine. By 11:00, we were in the taxi on the way to our port, Frihamnen. Our documentation was confusing, as the first set of travel documents listed Vartahamnen, a couple of kilometers away from Frihamnen. Fortunately, the taxi driver was knowledgeable about all that, and I also found the newer set of documents. We arrived on time and stood in line for maybe half an hour to go through security and get on the ship. We're on the Marina, an Oceania line ship that was built in 2011. It is simply beautiful, in every way. There was Lalique crystal in the stairway at the main entrance, and there is wood and marble everywhere. Our room is huge, and we have an open veranda outside with chairs and a small table. After boarding, we went to the Terrace cafe and had lunch. I can't remember much about the lunch, other than the ice cream at the end of the meal, vanilla and banana, covered with handmade caramel syrup. If I had to pick a last meal, that might be what I would choose. We repaired to our room for a nap, then went to the mandatory safety "muster," where we learned about getting off the ship in an emergency. I'm pretty sure the life vests are largely for decoration, because if you went into the drink in the Baltic, you'd have maybe ten or fifteen minutes before succumbing to hypothermia. On that happy note.... Following the demonstration, we went out on deck to watch the "sail away" from Stockholm. It is only from the water that you can understand the vast number of islands in the inlets and bays. There are apparently 24,000 islands in the archipelago off the Swedish shore. I'd like to meet the guy who counted them. Talk about compulsive! We were scheduled for dinner at 8:30 in the Polo Grill, one of the specialty restaurants on board. It is located aft on the 14th deck. (Note how quickly I picked up the lingo, with my extensive sailing background.) Now, this meal was the stuff of legend. We started with an appetizer, shrimp cocktail for me and heart of palm for Denise. Next was soup, oxtail for me and lobster bisque for her. Then Caesar salad for both, followed by surf and turf--lobster tail and filet mignon. Last was creme brule for Denise, and a brownie with ice cream and chocolate and raspberry sauces for me. I just revised that last meal remark from above. One more thing about the meal: We were sitting right next to a large window, watching the Swedish shoreline go by. There were are large number of summer houses on the shore, and people actually waved to the ship as we went by. The channel isn't all that wide, and much of the time I think we were less than 200 yards from the shore. Well, off to bed now. We can feel only the slightest roll of the ship. I expect to be rocked to sleep tonight. Good night.

Baltic Cruise Day 3, Stockholm

This morning we arose at a more normal time, around 5:30, and took our time with getting ready and eating breakfast. By 9:30 we were on the boat to Djurgårten, to see the Vasa Museet, a museum that houses the royal ship that sank in 1628 and was raised from the sea floor in 1961. It has been restored, and still has 95% of the original wood intact. This thing is HUGE. It is almost a football field long, and about 20 meters wide. Turns out, it was one meter too narrow. The Vasa sank on its maiden voyage, lasting about 20 minutes and 1000 yards, at which point a brisk wind arose and heeled it over, whereupon it took on water through the gun turrets, and sank. Amazingly, for the time, only about 30 men lost their lives, including the captain and the man who controlled the rudder. There were a lot of boats in the water around the ship, and they picked up the ones who could get out. Oh, and two cats died, which we know because two cat skeletons were in the ship when it was salvaged. No rat skeletons were found, meaning either that the cats were very efficient, or that rats can swim. It turns out that the king of Sweden was at war with his cousin, the king of Poland, and he wanted to impress the Poles with his prowess at sea. He ran short of money, so could only build one of the four ships he planned, and that was the Vasa. When the builders of the ship did a stability test, they knew immediately that the ship was not seaworthy. The test consisted of having 30 men run back and forth across the deck 10 times to simulate a storm. The ship master stopped the test after 3 circuits, afraid that the ship would sink at the dock. No one had the courage to tell the king about the screwup, and in classic bureaucratic fashion, the ship designer, who had died before the ship was finished, was blamed for the disaster. A sister ship was already under contruction when the Vasa sank, and the builders widened it by 1 meter. It sailed successfully for 30 years. What a difference 33 inches and change makes! From today's viewpoint, however, we don't have even a spinter from the second ship, while we have the entire Vasa, in a museum, with a truly delicious story of regal arrogance and government incompetence. But I digress. After the Vasa museum, we went to the tiny islands of Skepps-Holmen and Kastell-Holmen. They were once the home of the Swedish navy, and trust me, that meant the Swedish navy was not very large at all. After walking all over the islands, we headed back for our hotel, stopping along the way at a Barcelona-style tapas restaurant. I don't know how Catallonian the restaurant was, but the steak I had was pretty good, and we watched the downpour outside from a dry vantage point. The restaurant had blankets available, and Denise availed herself of one for a while. When the rain died down, we shopped in a store that reminded us of Bloomingdale's, in that there were several floors of over-priced items for sale. Back in the hotel, we napped while the rest of the storm passed, then went out again to shop some more, ending up at a hotel near ours that promised authentic Swedish food, "like 1904." Why 1904, I don't know, unless that was when the hotel was built. It was telling that the sign was all in English, leading us to think it was just for us tourist types. Denise had a hamburger that looked suspiciously American for authentic Swedish cuisine, and I had steak tips that were luscious. We're headed for bed, having tried to watch the Olympics with Swedish commentary. Most unsatisfying. In the morning, we'll putz around and then head for our ship, the Marina. We are supposed to embark at 1:00 PM. Bon Voyage, and all that! Good night.

Baltic Cruise Day 2: Stockholm

We slept in today.  At least, I did.  But we still made it downstairs for the complementary breakfast, which was excellent.  All but the herring.  I'm not going to say much about it, but I could not use my knife on other foods after using it on the herring. After breakfast, we searched for, and finally found, the bus stop for the tour line we took yesterday, and this time I stayed awake the whole time.  The city was established in the 1200's.  The Swedes are proud to say that their country has been at peace for over 200 years.  Not bad. Next, we boarded a tour boat, which was much more enjoyable than the bus, and quicker from place to place.  The boat ride was a "hop on, hop off" tour just like the bus was, so we disembarked on Djurgården, an island that was once the king's private hunting ground.  (Don't you like how I put in the little circle over the "å"?  iPads are amazing!)  We entered Skansen, a 75-acre outdoor museum that was established in 1891 to showcase Sweden's history.  It is a fabulous place, especially for those with small children.  There are quite a number of refurbished buildings that have been moved from other places in Sweden, including a church, several farmhouses of different centuries and levels of wealth, a small zoo with animals native to Sweden, and some nice restaurants.  We had a wonderful time, especially since each structure has several docents who were extremely knowledgeable about their locations.  They were all dressed in period clothing, as well, and as everywhere else, they spoke flawless English. We had lunch in one of the restaurants, and let's just say they do a better job with history than with food. After several hours in Skansen, we went to Junibacken, also on Djurgården.  It is a children's museum Denise wanted to visit because of its association with Astrid Lindgren, the author of the Pippi Longstocking books.  Her work is celebrated through much of the museum and bookstore.  The museum was opened by the Swedish royal family in 1996.  We got in for free because we were too late for the Story Train, which is the main attraction.  It was all very cute, and made us wish for the presence of grandkids. From the museum, we walked back to our hotel.  I think we must have walked 8 or 10 miles today.  At least, that's what my feet told me.  At that point, it was time for dinner, to we trudged back to Gamla Stan, the old town (that's the meaning of its name), and found a nice restaurant where Denise had a lovely filet of beef, and I had salmon.  Denise's meal had scalloped potatoes that would make you cry, they were so good.  Our meal made up for the not-so-good lunch. We returned to our room with the intention of watching some of the Olympics.  However, Denise is sacked already, and I'm about to be.  Tomorrow, we intend to see the Vasa Museum.  It's all about a ship that was sunk in 1628 on its maiden voyage, and was salvaged in 1961, then restored to its original glory.  It was a royal ship, and 95% of the current ship is original.  Apparently, there is something about the waters in the Baltic that keep wood from rotting.  Now, one might question the wisdom of touring a shipwreck the day before boarding a cruise ship, but we just won't go there.... Good night.

Baltic Cruise Day 1: Arriving in Stockholm

We left Phoenix yesterday morning, and flew to Newark, NJ. Landed this morning about 7:15 AM at the Stockholm airport, and took a train to downtown, about 30 miles away. They have the train thing down--there is free wi-fi on the train for the whole trip, and the cost was minimal. We both thought the countryside looked like Missouri, all green with trees and farms alongs the tracks. Make that Missouri with pine trees. Everyone we've met so far has been very helpful, and just about everyone speaks English. We have not been to a single shop in which the salespeople or the wait staff don't speak flawless English. And so far, when I hear them speak Swedish, I don't think of the chef on Sesame Street. After we dropped our bags at the hotel, we took a walk. Realize it was about 9 AM on Sunday, so not much was open. Near our hotel there was a flea market in a small square. It looked like every other flea market we've ever seen, except most of them in Arizona don't have stuffed otters and other wildlife available for purchase. We headed toward the embassy area of Stockholm. We didn't see the American embassy, but we walked by the Egyptian embassy, and that of Israel. Anyhow, we kept going until we reached our goal, the English-speaking Anglican church. The sermon this morning was given by a guest pastor, who is Scottish, and is a pastor in the Church of Sweden. She said she was a little confused herself this morning. She spoke from Matthew's gospel, the story of Jesus feeding the 5000. It's nice to go to church in different places now and then, I think. After the service, we walked along the docks and shore, until we got to a restaurant, where we had Swedish meatballs, mashed potatoes, and salad. One meal was plenty for both of us. Then, we boarded a tour bus, the double-decker open-top variety. Whenever we go to a new city, we like to get these bus tours early in the trip, so we can find out what we want to come back and see. Stockholm is a city of about 1.9 million people, including the suburbs. It is built on about 14 islands, so you are never far from the water. I know these things because I read them before we arrived. Unfortunately, the moment I sat down on the bus, I rested in the arms of jet lag, thus missing everything the guide said. Our tickets are good for tomorrow, so we'll try again. After a nice nap in our hotel room, we headed out again. A note about our room. It is large by Scandinavian standards. We can open both suitcases, although we had to relocate some if the furniture for that. There is a window, which helps to avoid claustrophobia. All the furniture, both our hotel and everywhere else, helps us to understand Ikea. After the nap, we headed for Gamla Stan, or Old Town. The Swedish Parliament and the Palace are located on this tiny island, and it has become a destination for tourists, as it has very narrow streets and very old buildings, along with a great number of shops and restaurants. Think of Scottsdale, older and speaking Swedish, with water. Okay, don't think of that. Never mind. Many of the doorways we saw had inscriptions above them with the dates the building were constructed, and most were in the 1600's. Coming from Arizona, where an old building might be 50 years old, the antiquity of these buildings just boggles my mind. We stopped for dinner in a very busy steakhouse, and ate outside. Denise had salmon with tiny shrimp and mashed potatoes, and I had a cheeseburger. All haute cuisine for us, don't you know. The food here so far has been good, but it is quite expensive. Our dinner with tip was over 700 SEK, about $100. Ouch. It was nice, but not that nice. We haven't decided yet whether to eat at the most intriguing restaurant we've seen: the Taco Bar. There are quite a few of them, all subtitled "A Small Piece of Mexico." I'm thinking, "Maybe not." We might be able to resist their charms. Well, time for bed. The rain is pattering outside, and it is cold outside, but warm in our tiny room. I think I'll sleep well.

Scotland Day Nine

You know it's a good trip when the last day is the best day. We arose early to work out in the gym. Workout availability has been spotty, with everything from no gym at all to one that would be okay next to LA Fitness. This one is quite adequate. At 8:00, you guessed it, full Scottish breakfast, and then we got ready for church, or kirk, as they say o'er here. We arrived at the Mayfield Salisbury Church in plenty of time for the 10:45 service. This is the church where Ben did his internship in summer of 2002, and the church remembers him well. They welcomed all of us with open arms.

Church over here is much more formal that we're used to in Arizona, even in those AZ churches that have "high church" services. There is the organ, in this case a small pipe organ, I believe. All of the music was either hymns or classical music, and we sang every verse of every song. Their hymnal has only the melody line, and in some of the songs harmony is discouraged by the notation that it is to be in unison. The pastor gave a very well-written, intellectual sermon that I enjoyed. During the service, he dedicated their new altar and pulpit tapestries, done by several of the women in the congregation. The theme was created by a professor of design from the University of Glasgow, and it is modern but blends well with the Victorian furniture to which it was attached.

After the service, we were treated to a "feast" (they don't appear to do "pot lucks") downstairs, and then changed clothes before being dropped off on High Street, near the Edinburgh Castle. We had a glorious five hours of free time, and we used it well. Some of the people took a walking tour with our tour guide, but since Denise and I had been here twice before, we struck out on our own.

High Street is also called the Royal Mile, and runs from the Edinburgh Castle to Holyrood Palace. About a third of the way down from the castle is St. Giles Cathedral, an imposing structure that is, of course, a Church of Scotland (=Presbyterian). A little further down is John Knox's house, the one in which he was born in 1505. He was a Catholic priest, newly ordained, when a cardinal in Edinburgh burned Wiseheart, a messenger from King Henry VIII, at the stake. This angered Knox, who became a sworn enemy of the Catholic church, and he then studied under John Calvin in Geneva. He returned to Scotland and began the Scottish reformation. Mary, Queen of Scots, was reported to have said, "I fear the prayers of John Knox more than all the armies of Europe." Needless to say, they did not agree on much of anything.

After walking and shopping for a couple of hours, we stopped in at a Starbucks near Canongate, and had the first good coffee we've had since arriving in this country. After a brief respite, we walked over and climbed Calton Hill. Without visiting Calton Hill, I don't feel like I've been to Scotland. As hills go, it's not that high, but at its peak are several monuments, and a spectacular view of the city. On the other side we could see the Firth of Forth, the port that serves Edinburgh.

By this time, it was raining, so we returned to High Street, shopped some more, then had dinner in Deacon Brodies Tavern. The pub is named for William Brodie, who was a respectable Deacon of the Cabinetmakers Guild, a wealthy businessman. By night, however, he was quite a party guy, spending a great deal of time in the tavern drinking and gambling. In 1786, he started committing burglaries to pay his gambling debts. He would make a wax impression of the key when he would do work in wealthy clients' homes, then return at night to steal their property. In 1788, he was caught, and was hung on a gallows he had previously designed himself, being a proper carpenter and all.

We had standard pub fare. I had a steak and ale pie, which was amazing but not quite as good as it is in the Rula Bula pub in Tempe. Then, we stopped at a small cafe and Denise ordered a deep-fried Mars bar. I sort of turned up my nose at the idea, but I have to tell you, a deep fried Mars bar is not your mother's Mars bar. I had a couple of bites, and it was almost a religious experience.

At the end of our time, we boarded the coach for our hotel. In the morning, we arise early, and will head for the airport and home. It has been a charmed trip, and we have all enjoyed almost every minute of it. I hope you've had fun reading my travelog. Thanks for humoring me.

Scotland Day Eight

Yes, we are experiencing tour fatigue. I'm sitting in our hotel in Edinburgh (that's e'-din-bur'uh for you non-Scots), and it's only 9:20 PM. Compared to other evenings, we're turning in extremely early tonight. If it had not been raining all day, it would be brightly sunny out, as sunset is around 10:30. As it is, it's MacBeth-like dreary outside, and we're happy to be inside a nice hotel, warm and dry.

This morning, we arose and had the usual extreme Scottish breakfast. They don't offer haggis every meal, like they did in the islands, but I'm about haggis'd out. Before getting on the bus, Denise and I walked to the St. Andrews Episcopal Church nearby and took pictures. The people over here are serious about their churches, as each one is a wonderful of architecture and history.

Leaving Inverness, we headed south through the Cairngorms National Park. After about an hour, we stopped at a sheep farm near Etteridge, I think. There, we saw an exhibition of the skills of border collies in working sheep. These dogs are amazing. I will try to post a video on Facebook, depending on the speed of the Internet connection. It seemed that they were reading the shepherd's mind, and each individual dog moved like a professional soccer player. The sheep ran almost as if they were marionettes. In addition, the dogs were friendly and affectionate to these strangers who had just gotten off the bus at their farm. Oh, and the shepherd told us about the dogs, and he said "There's only one kind of dog--a border collie. All the rest are cats."

The dogs start their training at 21 days after birth. He brought out five puppies, and handed them out to the group members. I held one for a while, and the little guy warmed my heart. He was a bit stinky, of course. Anyhow, the shepherd showed us how one of the pups, all around 14 days old, would follow his voice and whistling, so a lot of what they do is very instinctual.

The shepherd then sheared one of the sheep, allowing some of the group to have a hand at the shears. He does not use electric shears, as they are more likely to nick the sheep's skin, and he likes to leave a little bit of a coat because it's cold even in summer, here. He said the fastest he had ever sheared a sheep was in one minute. I took my turn, and it really is fascinating how the shears can lift the hair up so that when you close the shears, you can be certain that no skin is between the blades. After he did the shearing, he let the sheep go, and its lamb bleated very soulfully, as it didn't recognize its own mother without her wool. Within about 15 minutes, they had reconciled just fine, but we all became convinced that sheep really are just a dumb as everyone says they are.

After re-boarding the bus, we went south to Edinburgh, skipping a planned stop in Perth and arriving at our hotel around 3 PM. We dropped our luggage and went directly downtown for a quick bus tour of the sights, and then we entered Edinburgh Castle. The oldest part of the castle is St. Margaret's Chapel in the highest part of the grounds. It's a tiny chapel that might seat 15 people if they all sat shoulder-to-shoulder. The chapel was built in the 12th century.

The castle has been taken by invaders several times, but the chapel survived because it was a house of worship. Even though its occupants used it for a while to store gunpowder. There is evidence that Edinburgh, most likely the castle site, was occupied in the 600's by Picts, then named Din Eidyn. In 638, the Angles captured the area, and renamed it Edinburgh. I have been fascinated over and over by the detail and accuracy of the history of this formidable land. Many of the ancient events are recorded not only to the year, but to the exact date, sometimes with the hour the event occurred.

We walked around in the castle proper, and saw the Scottish crown jewels, which are the second oldest in Europe. We also saw the Stone of Scone, also known as the Stone of Destiny. It has been used at the coronation of Scottish kings since the 1200's, and was in London until 1996, when it was returned to Edinburgh. King Edward I, famously the king who defeated William Wallace and ordered his execution, brought the stone to England to humiliate the Scots, and the stone had been there ever since. Since the modern kings are king of Scots and of England, the stone has been used in coronations of English kings all that time.

Our time in the castle was marred only by continual drizzling rain. It's also very windy up there on top of that extinct volcano, so we were just a bit miserable. We took the bus again, to Abbottsford Pub, where we had dinner all together. There was a set menu, but we were able to substitute fish and chips for the main course. My appetizer was "packets of haggis, with onion chutney." Let me tell you something! You might not like the idea of haggis (various meats cooked in a sheep's stomach), when that stuff is baked in small pastries and served with a chili sauce and onion chutney, it is wonderful. The fish and chips were just really good traditional fare, and dessert was "sticky toffee with vanilla ice cream." It was even better than it sounds. Much better.

Tomorrow, we're going to church where Ben did his internship for his seminary degree, and then we'll have free time all afternoon. Should be a ball.

Scotland Day Seven

This morning, we slept in. I think everyone is feeling a little bit of touring fatigue, so we changed plans and had a free morning. Denise and I took advantage of it to get caught up on emails, read, and have a generally lovely morning in our hotel room. We were able to shop very briefly, then had lunch at that famous old Scottish restaurant, MacDonald's.

Following that, we returned to the hotel and got on the bus headed for Cawdor Castle, MacBeth's home. Yes, there really was a historical MacBeth, and he was apparently a very capable king, ruling for many years. The Cawdor Castle is in perfect condition, and looks as if someone could move back in tomorrow. There are tapestries covering the walls inside that date from the 1600's. The grounds around the castle are a garden that just goes on and on. We saw a hedge maze that was copied from Roman times, but did not have time to get lost in it.

After Cawdor, we went to a dock on the edge of the Ness River, and boarded a boat for a "three-hour" tour. I tried to find a Gilligan hat, but couldn't. It was actually a two-hour tour, ending at Urquehart Castle. Denise and I were here in 2002, but I think we saw more this time. While we were there, a wedding occurred in the castle. The men mostly wore kilts, and the bride had a sleeveless dress that made me shiver just looking at it. Understand, it was maybe 40 degrees outside, so she must have been freezing. It was a beautiful wedding.

Following the boat ride, we rode back to Inverness, where we had a dinner of chicken liver pate with oat cakes and onion chutney (the appetizer); and salmon on a bed of potato with field greens (the main course); and a fruit cup. All of it was wonderful. Afterwards, we repaired to a pub, then to our rooms.

Tomorrow, we will be seeing a sheepdog work, then to Perth and eventually to Edinburgh, our final hotel stay.

Scotland Day Six

Today was a very long day. We left Uig headed for Armadale, at the south end of Skye. Armadale Castle is located there, with the Clan Donald Centre. This is a more recent castle, built mostly in the 1800's, and it was occupied until fairly recently. The clan decided that the taxes were just too great on the property, so they removed the roof and allowed the structure to be destroyed by the Scottish weather. So all the stone parts are intact, but there are no floors or inner structures. The grounds of the castle, however, are absolutely beautiful. There are very large trees, plants and flowers of every variety, and paths over the 20 acres of gardens.

From there, we traveled by ferry to Malaig, where we boarded the Jacobite train. This is a steam train, the one used in the Harry Potter movies, and it takes passengers on a two-hour ride back to Fort William. The train actually burns coal. Having traveled now on a coal-burner, I can tell you that there are very good reasons trains now use diesel. The noise of the engine (we were in the first car) was not quite deafening, but close.

The biggest problem was the smell of burning coal. Once, we started moving uphill inside a tunnel, and our cabin was filled with steam and smoke. If there had been a lung disease patient on board, they would have had a very hard time. At it was, I was glad I had an inhaler in my bag. We did see the bridge that is famous from the Harry Potter movies, and I got a few pictures by sticking my camera out the window of the door between cars. I'm sure the grandkids will appreciate those.

When we arrived in Fort William, we got on our coach again, and took the 90-minute ride to Inverness. In between naps (it's hard to stay awake on a bus), we saw stunning views of Loch Ness. No monster was in evidence.

We reached our hotel about 6 PM, and after dinner we took a walk downtown, shopping. The shops here stay open until 10 PM, wisely. I found a Scotland jacket that I can use instead of the sweater I've been wearing the whole time. We also got teeshirts for the grandkids, along with other assorted miscellany.

After dropping our booty at the hotel, Denise and I went on a long walk and found the bed and breakfast where we stayed in 2002. It was a lovely walk along the Ness River, which is beautifully landscaped on both sides, and reminds me of the Seine in Paris, in miniature. There are several well-kept churches that look more like cathedrals to my untrained eye, and we walked by the Inverness Castle, which is right across the river from our hotel. We arrived back in the hotel at dusk, which is Scotland is ten minutes before eleven.

Tomorrow, we have free time in the morning, and a tour in the afternoon. We might just sleep in.

Scotland Day Five

Our view this evening is overlooking Duntulm, the ruin that was the castle of the MacDonalds before their destruction at the battle of Culloden. There's not much left, but the ruin is striking in its beauty, mainly because it overlooks the sea at the northwest end of the Isle of Skye. In the distance, we can see two of the Outer Hebrides islands, Lewis and Uist. We can't see them well, as we are looking into the sunset. It's 10:25 PM.

We started the morning in Fort William, with the customary breakfast, although this morning I went easier than previously, with oatmeal (porridge over here), and eggs Benedict. Hard to believe that that's going easy. We headed west and stopped for a photo opportunity to get pictures of Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in Scotland. As noted before, it is majestic and stunningly beautiful. Then, we headed west for the Isle of Skye, stopping to see Ealean Donnan castle. This is a rebuilt castle that has been featured in a number of movies. It is on a small spit of land that is an island when the tide is in, and there is a bridge to the castle, which was a ruin until the 1920's and 30's. An army colonel bought the place and rebuilt it to its original splendor, and it has become a real destination for tourists.

After spending some time in and around the castle, we crossed the bridge to Skye and drove to Portree, the main city of the island. This city is a port there that was important in the past for fishing, but not so much anymore. Now, it's mainly a tourist town. In 2002, Denise and I went there and we remembered seeing a Scottish wedding from a small coffee shop in the town square. Today, we shopped for stuff (various), then boarded the bus and headed for Uig.

At Uig, we visited the Island Life museum, a collection of recreated thatched huts that simulated Scottish life until the 1800's. The museum was a mite underwhelming. We also saw the grave of Flora MacDonald, the lady who helped Bonnie Prince Charlie escape from the British by having him pose as her servant. Following that escapade, she was captured and taken to the Tower of London, then eventually released, living out her life in Scotland, and for a short time in North Carolina. This all happened in the 1700's, but her gravestone was erected in the 1990's. Those Scots have a very long memory.

Our hotel, as I mentioned, overlooks Duntulm, and if you visit my Facebook page, you will see a few pics. We walked up there both before and after dinner, and climbed around the walls. After the second trip, we walked along the beach looking for the seals that are supposed to come in every evening, along with otters. No luck in spotting them, but we got good pictures of people and scenery. I also managed to sink my tennis shoes deep into the boggy mud that surrounds the beach, so we'll need to find a washing machine in Inverness tomorrow.

Scotland Day Four

Scotland Day Four

We arose late today and had the usual breakfast, specifically more food than any three people can eat. Then, we set out for the ferry ride back to Oben, then on to Glenncoe.

This valley was the site of a massacre that occurred in 1692. The king of England, James II, was attempting to bring the Scottish clans under his dominion. He was also King James VI of Scotland, so he had more reasons than one to make the clans do his bidding. The head of the MacDonald clan delayed in signing the document the other clans had signed, so the king decided to make an example of him. He ordered his troops to Glenncoe, where they stayed with the clan for two weeks, enjoying their hospitality.

Then, the order came and the British platoon slaughtered about 30 of the residents, including women and children. That was the end of the power of the MacDonald clan, and subsequently their lands were forfeited to the king. In later years, descendants of the MacDonalds applied for a return of the lands, but they were always denied. Thomas Dalrymple was the king's advisor who ostensibly gave the order for the massacre, but an inquest proved inconclusive, and no one was ever punished for the treachery.

Now, the valley remains hauntingly beautiful, as you will see in the pics on my Facebook page. We stopped there for a photo shoot, and then went on to Fort William. The "fort" part of its name has long ceased to exist. This city is on the bank of the Nevis river or loch, I'm not sure which, and we are staying in the Nevis Bank Hotel. The town sits right next to the highest mountain in Scotland, which rises higher than 4000 feet. In the past, I tended to scoff at the idea of mountains in the British isles, but this really does qualify. We rode a gondola up to the top, and took more amazing photos. This is a ski area in wintertime, and it looks as if it would be a pretty good one, with more than 2000 feet in vertical elevation to ski.

After the ride, we went to the hotel, a building with very modern architecture and amenities. Our dinner was marvelous. I had sea bass with vegetables and "chorizo," which was really just sausage. I guess they don't expect people like us Zonies, who know real chorizo. Following dinner, several of us walked into town, where Ben bought his third kilt. He looks quite fetching, I must say. Not so much that I want to buy one, however.

Tomorrow, we travel to Uig, on the Isle of Skye.

Scotland Day Three

As I sit on the bed in our room, I feel like I'm still vibrating. We spent a lot of time on the "coach" today, and let's just say rock and roll has a new meaning for me. After a "full Scottish breakfast," which includes eggs, baked beans, haggis, roasted tomatoes, sausage, bacon, porridge, black pudding (you don't want to know), fruit, fruit juice, tea, and a selection of cold cereals, we boarded our coach and headed toward the western tip of the island, Fiannphort. No, I can't pronounce it, either.

The distance is only about 30 miles. An hour and a half after we left, we arrived at the ferry stop. The road is one-lane, and it is very rough and bouncy. The bus had to stop frequently to pass an oncoming car, or to let an overtaking car pass. Every 1/8 to 1/4 mile, there is a wide spot that will allow vehicles to pass, and we seemed to stop at most of them. Anyhow, we finally arrived about 11:00 and boarded the ferry for the 10-minute ride across to Iona.

Iona was the island where St. Columba arrived in the 563, to establish Christianity on the island. The story is that he arrived with twelve others, and they proceeded to evangelize first Iona and then much of the rest of Scotland. He built an abbey on the eastern shore, which continued to house monks for several hundred years. He died on June 9, 597 in the church, having risen in reputation and power to the point that he "ordained" the king of Dalriada, which included much of Scotland. Many kings of Scotland were buried on Iona, as it was regarded as a holy place. At the abbey, there is a shrine that marks his burial place, supposedly. In the 800's and 900's, others came and started rebuilding the structure, and parts of the current building apparently date back to that time.

In the 1100's, Somerled became "Lord of the Isles," a title that is now held by Prince Charles. His son Reginald brought Benedictine monks and Augustinian nuns to the island. From that time until the Reformation, there was an active abbey and nunnery, which comprise the buildings that are now present.

In the 1500's, the Reformation stopped all that. Abbeys and nunneries became part of either the Church of England or the Church of Scotland. The structures fell into disrepair, and in the 1800's, it was decided that they should be rebuilt. Final rebuilding happened in the 19th and 20th centuries. Now, the site is a monastic-type community in which people from various faiths can come for week-long prayer and meditation visits. Some of what they do sounds pretty far out, but I can see how such time could be life-changing for people seeking a renewal of their faith.

There are several crosses leading up to the abbey, and on the ground of the sanctuary. One dates from the 1500's and is still standing, five centuries later. Others have fallen, and the pieces of those crosses are displayed in the museum. One of them broke immediately after being erected, as the arms were too long, so the sculptors added a circle around the intersection of the cross, which was later copied all over Scotland, and became the cross used now by the Presbyterians.
I don't think there are more than 200 people on the island, and that may be an overestimate. In fact, many who work there live on Mull. As one of them told us, Iona is just one ferry too many from the mainland.

While at the abbey, we had a short service led by Rev. Ben Seller, and it was touching and meaningful. He spoke about the Great Commission, to go into all the world and preach the Gospel, relating that mandate both to St. Columba and to our world today. It was excellent.

In the afternoon, we caught the ferry again and took the bus to Tobermory, the other larger community on the island. The town is known for its distillery, and for its buildings being painted in multicolored hues. It is actually very picturesque. We shopped the main street for an hour or so, before returning to our hotel. While shopping, we stopped in a grocery store, and I bought some potato chips, flavored "Prawn Cocktail." They weren't bad, but I don't think I would order them again. I could have ordered Fried Chicken flavor, among others. Denise got the Pickled Onion ones, but I didn't get to taste any of hers.

Because of the roads and the swaying of the bus, I now know how it must have felt to ride in a stagecoach. I'm hoping my head will stop spinning by tomorrow. Dinner tonight was much better than last night. I had the pickled mackerel appetizer, which was much better than it sounds, followed by the Laird's Pie, made of venison, carrots, mashed potatoes, along with a puff pastry top. Now, I would not usually try venison, but this was amazing, and tasted more like beef than anything else. There was only one bite that had a minimally wild taste, and it was prepared such that it was much more tender and succulent than venison usually is.

Following dinner, we walked down to the bay and skipped stones on the water. Denise picked up shells, as well, which will be coming home with us. After the walk we sat in the hotel lounge and talked until after 10 PM. The sky was still bright enough to read outside when we returned to our room.

Tomorrow, we head north to Fort William, with a side trip to Glencoe.

Scotland Day Two

Scotland Day Two

I'm sitting in the room at the Isle of Mull Hotel and Spa. It's in Craignure, and our room overlooks the bay. We're drinking tea again. We can't figure out if the tea is actually better here, or if it just tastes better because we're drinking it in Scotland.

We started out this morning near Glasgow, going north. Our guide, Allison, is from Glasgow, and she said there is a 'friendly' rivalry between Glasgow and Edinburgh. Glasgow is sort of a low-brow city of blue collar workers, shipwrights, businesses involved with trade. According to Allison, the Glaswegians say, "You'll have more fun at a Glasgow funeral than at an Edinburgh wedding." I think that captures the essence of the difference between the two largest cities in this country. Also, if there is something that is outstanding or wonderful, in Glasgow it's "pure dead brilliant." That may have just become my favorite phrase.

On our way north, we stopped at the Village of Luss, a tiny touristy way station. We visited a small shop where an old man tottered around inside with a plate of Scottish shortbread for all customers. The village is on Loch Lomond, famous for a poem and song that include the words, "You take the high road and I'll take the low road, and I'll be in Scotland afore ye," written about a pair of friends who were imprisoned. One was to be executed the next day (the low road) and the other was to be set free.

From there we drove to Inverary Castle, home of the Duke of Argyll. This castle is occupied by the current Duke, whose wife is an heir to the Cadbury chocolate empire. The duke is from the Campbell clan, and in fact Argyll was the headquarters of that clan. Since the family name Burns is a sept of the Campbell clan, I guess I was visiting my ancestral home. Didn't see anyone I knew. While we were there, we had lunch in the cafe at the castle, lentil soup and ginger beer. The ginger beer is not to be confused with ginger ale. It is made of fermented ginger root, but has only a negligible amount of alcohol. The closest taste I can think of is Vernor's ginger ale, as it is rather strong and catches in the back of the throat. I probably would not drink it very often.

The castle was built in the 1700's, and it overlooks Loch Fyne. It is furnished in a French provincial style, including tapestries on the walls reminiscent of Versailles. There were pictures everywhere, both of the ancient dukes and duchesses, and modern ones of the current family. They have small children, 3, 5, and 7 as I remember. The duchess acts as 'lady in waiting' whenever the ruling monarch visits. That's sort of an aide who sets up meetings and official dinners.

From Inverary we went north along Loch Awe (pronounced "oh"). It's the longest loch, at 25 miles in length. By now, these lochs are all running together in my head, because I can't really tell much difference between them. They are all fabulously beautiful. Anyway, we arrived in Oben, where we caught a ferry to the Isle of Mull. Oben is picturesque, and with any luck I'll be able to send some pictures. By the way, I sent some this morning (last night to you 'Zonies), to Facebook, so if you want to find me on Facebook, the pics are in an album labeled "Scotland."

Somewhere along the way, before or after the village, we crossed into the highlands. You can tell when that happens, because the signs are suddenly in two languages: English and Gaelic. The Gaelic (pronounced "gallic") in Scotland is very different from Irish Gaelic. It has only 18 letters, and is inscrutable to me.

From Oben we took the ferry to Craignure, the largest town on Mull. Large is a term that should in no way be applied to this place. The term "wee" would fit quite well, in fact. The ferry ride gave us a spectacular view of the islands surrounding the open water between the cities. By the time we left Oben, it was late afternoon, so the land around us seemed shrouded in mist, with a mountainous horizon to the north and east, and rolling green hills to the south and west.

After settling in at the hotel, we had dinner. This one was not a amazing as last night's, but it was still pretty good. Then we took a walk. We left the hotel at a little after 8 PM, in search of the nearest castle, which we understood was about 1.5 miles away. We finally reached the Torosay Castle a little after 9:00, and of course it was closed for business. Like yesterday's castle, it is occupied, so we didn't feel good about jumping the fence and looking around anyhow. I didn't like the idea of spending the night in a Scottish jail. We got back to the hotel a few minutes before 10 PM, having walked at least five miles round trip. So much for their distance estimates. It was still light enough outside to take a picture without flash. It's easy to forget how far north we are until the sun sets after ten.

Tomorrow, we'll be going to the Isle of Iona.

Scotland Day One

Journal 20110611

I'm sitting in our hotel room, in the Gleddoch House Hotel Golf Club and Spa, drinking tea and eating a shortbread cookie while I write. Life could be worse. It's about 45 degrees outside with a light drizzle, and naturally there are people on the golf course playing anyway. I like Mark Twain's comment that golf is a good walk, spoiled, so I'm not tempted, even here in the home of golf. I must say the courses we've seen are just beautiful. But enough about that.

We left Phoenix yesterday morning at 6:50 AM, and landed in Newark for a 5-hour layover. Can't say I found much to recommend about New Jersey, at least the airport. The flight "over the pond" was uneventful, but sleep eluded me uncharacteristically. Because of that, I missed some of the guide's information about Glasgow because I had to inspect the inner aspect of my eyelids. They're fine.

After dropping our bags at the hotel, our driver, Stevie, took us to the center of Glasgow, where we visited the Glasgow Cathedral. The cathedral building was started in the 1300's, and took about 100 years to complete, with additional wings added over the next couple hundred years. After the Reformation, the church was Presbyterian rather than catholic, and eventually it was turned over to the city of Glasgow. I couldn't tell if they still have church services in there anymore, or not. The structure is smaller and less impressive than Canterbury Cathedral, but it is still amazing to look at. The lower portions are obviously ancient. I'm hoping to post pictures either on Facebook or on my blog, depending on the speed of the Internet.

Alongside the cathedral, there is a museum, the St. Mungo Museum of World Religions. St. Mungo is the patron saint of Glasgow. He died the 600's, and nothing was written about him for another several hundred years, so he's somewhat apocryphal. Anyhow, the church was built on the location of his grave and that of another holy man, Fergus, whose body Mungo brought to Glasgow for burial. If I were a Glasgow native (Glasgowian? Glasgowite?), I would try for a different saint. Mungo sounds like a character in a western movie that would star Clint Eastwood or Charles Bronson. But back to the museum. It is a small museum that celebrates great world religions, including Buddhism, Sikhism, Islam, Hinduism, and so on. The displays are interesting in that they are somewhat random, so you have to pay attention and can be surprised by the juxtaposition of different beliefs.

We went to the O'Connor pub next, and Denise and I split "Chicken Supreme," which is a chicken breast stuffed with haggis, served over mashed potatoes with whiskey gravy. It was amazing, and we were glad we shared. Upon our return to the hotel, Denise and I took a hike that landed us in someone's back yard, sort of. If you can call the rear garden of a Scottish estate a back yard. The rain drizzle was light enough that it just added to the charm of the place.

Our hotel overlooks the Firth of Clyde, which is more or less a long bay or fjord-like area where the River Clyde empties into the ocean. The hotel was built as a manor for a shipping baron, Sir John Lithgow (not the actor). I can't tell how old it is, but I'd be late 1800's. It's on 360 acres of rolling grass (much of it golf course). There was a wedding reception here today, with the men all in kilts. We saw a 3-4 year old boy in a kilt, and I must say he was very cute.

Dinner was in the hotel with our group, and it was fabulous. I may be required to buy an additional seat on the plane if I keep eating like this.

Tomorrow, we're going to the Isle of Mull. Later.